Boats come in all shapes and sizes. This page will help you put a name to some of the passing scenery.

1. DAN BUOY (emergency marker) 

2. LIFE BUOY (see page 28)

3. KEDGE ANCHOR (secondary anchor)

4. PUSHPIT (rear safety rail)

5. AFTER DECK

6. DODGERS (to keep spray out)

7. STERN LOCKER

8. FAIRLEAD (to pass ropes through) 

9. DINGHY PAINTER (rope to tie-up dinghy) 

10. THWART (seat)

11. BAILER (to bail out water)

12. ROWLOCK ('rollock')

13. TRANSOM (flat back of boat)

14. DINGHY OR TENDER

15. TILLER

16. TILLER EXTENSION 

17. LIFE RAFT STOWAGE (not always here) 

18. COAMING

19. COCKPIT SOLE (floor)

20. COCKPIT

21. COCKPIT LOCKER

22. ENGINE CONTROLS (see page 13)

23. MAIN SHEET (see page 56)

24. MAIN SHEET TRACK 

25. SHEET WINCH

26. WASH BOARDS (drop-in boards)

27. COMPANIONWAY (main entrance)

28. TOE RAIL OR GUNWALE

('gunnel' — top edge of hull)

29. RUBBING STRAKE (bumper)

30. JAMMERS (see page 34) 

1 ANCHOR LOCKER, ANCHOR WELL OR CHAIN LOCKER Often where the main anchor (bower) is stowed. Anchor cable is sometimes kept here or in a separate chain locker 

2. FOREWARD BULKHEAD

3. FORE CABIN, FORE PEAK OR FO'C'SLE (cabin in the bows)

4. CEILING (cabin sides)

5. SAIL LOCKER (sometimes aft)

6. PIPE COT (folding bed)

7. LEE-CLOTH (stops you falling out) 

8. BULKHEAD (wall)

9. HANGING LOCKER (wardrobe) If used for wet oilies it is called a wet locker

10. HEADS (lavatory) see page 16

11. SEACOCKS (valves to let water in and out)

12. PILOT BERTH (bed) 

13. MAIN SALOON (cabin)

14. LOCKER (cupboard)

15. SETTEE BERTH (bed that can often be converted into a double by lowering the table)

16. CABIN SOLE (floor)

17. BILGE (where the bottom of the boat joins the sides or the space under the sole)

1. COMPANIONWAY (entrance to cabin) 

2. WASH BOARDS (drop-in boards)

3. FIRE EXTINGUISHER (see page 29)

4. FLARES Not always here (see page 31)

5. COMPANIONWAY STEPS

6. FIRE BLANKET (see page 29)

7. QUARTER BERTH (bed) Sometimes a small cabin — quarter cabin or after cabin.

8. DECK HEAD (ceiling)

9. CHART TABLE (navigation area)

10. GALLEY (kitchen)

11. ICE-BOX

12. GIMBALLED STOVE (Swings with ship's movement see page 17)

13. SAFETY STRAP FOR COOK

14. HALF-BULKHEADS ' GRAB RAILS

16. LOCKERS (cupboards)

17. CABIN SOLE (floor)

ENGINE CONTROLS 

These normally consist of the engine instrument panel together with the throttle and gear lever. This can be combined as one lever, so as you push it forward it engages ahead and then opens the throttle. Likewise the same happens in astern.

Sometimes there are separate gear and throttle levers. But, whichever system you have ALWAYS go gently from ahead to astern.

All engine instruments and controls are slightly different so make sure you understand them fully before using them.

A great deal of damage can be caused by the wrong sequence of actions being carried out.

RUNNING RIGGING 

Rigging lines are usually attached to other things (such as sails) by some form of fastening called a SHACKLE.

These come in various sizes and open in a variety of ways.

(A) The most common type has a screw-in pin, which can be tightened with a slotted spanner called a SHACKLE KEY (often these are incorporated in sailor's knives).

(B) Another type simply has a 'push and turn' keyhole pin.

(C) Spring loaded SNAP SHACKLES open in several different ways some have triggers, but the most common have a pull-out pin.

STANDING RIGGING

The tension in the standing rigging is usually adjusted by turning a RIGGING SCREW (D). This has a left and right handed thread so each turn either tightens or loosens the rigging wire. Once adjusted, the rigging screw is locked in position by a locknut (E), split pin (F) or locking wire.

Any signs of damage or looseness in these fittings must be reported to the skipper.

The rigging wire is attached to the rigging screw with a clevis pin and split pin. These are usually taped over to stop them tearing sails.

The rigging screw is connected to the boat via some form of toggle (G) which allows for some degree of movement.

The toggle in turn is fixed to a chain plate or strong U bolt. Again any signs of wear in these components should be reported.

WATER - the heads 

On a boat, the lavatory is called 'the heads', as in the past seamen used to use the front of the boat or 'head' as a toilet. Today, the marine W.C.'s vary quite considerably in design and operation, so, make sure you understand how to use the one on your boat.

Basically, they all suck in sea water through a seacock (valve) (A), flush the bowl and pump it out through another seacock (B) (or into a holding tank).

Only things which have passed through the body and moderate amounts of lavatory paper can be successfully flushed away.

So, women using sanitary towels should also take along a supply of disposal bags.

To prevent syphoning, the pipes carrying water to and from the lavatory rise above the water level and the seacocks are turned off at seu, when the system is not being used.

FRESH WATER

All fresh water is carried in tanks (A), which are filled from the deck (B) and the levels are checked either by a sight-tube (C) or dip stick (D).

Water gets to the sink via a footpump (E), hand pump (F) or an electric pump, whose switch often looks like a tap.

Waste water drains out through another seacock (G) or into a holding tank which can be pumped out later.

DO NOT WASTE WATER.

GAS 

Bottled gas is the main fuel used I'm- cooking and can be very dangerous.

Nuniuilly, the bottle lives in a draining, cockpit locker which lets any escaping gas leak overboard.

A STRUT SEQUENCE MUST l\K USED TO STOP GAS ESCAPING

TO TURN ON

1. MAKE SURE ALL TAPS ARE CLOSED. ASK HOW THEY ALL WORK.

2. TURN ON AT THE BOTTLE (A)

3. TURN ON THE MAIN COCK (B)

4. LIGHT THE MATCH

5. TURN ON THE BURNER

6. DISPOSE OF THE MATCH SAFELY

TO TURN OFF:-

If you are going to use the stove again soon:

1. TURN OFF THE MAIN COCK (B)

2. LET THE GAS BURN OUT

3. SHUT THE BURNER TAP

If you have finished with the stove

1. TURN OFF AT THE BOTTLE

2. LET THE GAS BURN OUT OF THE SYSTEM

3. SHUT OFF THE MAIN COCK

4. SHUT OFF THE BURNER TAP

Liquid petroleum gas is heavier than air so, any small amounts that escape, sink into the bilge and might accumulate into an explosive mixture.

THIS IS AN EXAMPLE OF WHAT YOU SHOULD NOT DO!

USING A DINGHY AT NIGHT 

This can be very pleasurable or extremely dangerous. Always wear some form of buoyancy, and take the oars as well as the outboard. Take a torch, to warm others you're there and to find your own boat again!

NEVER, EVER TRY TO START AN OUTBOARD WHEN STANDING IN THE . WATER NEXT TO IT. 

When it fires it can jump forward and slice into your legs! Row the boat off a good distance from the beach and start the engine when you are safely inside. Mso, beware of the trailing painter fouling the propeller.

ALWAYS CUT THE ENGINE AND TIP IT UP WHEN APPROACHING A BEACH. 

This will save the propeller from damaging itself by churning up the sand. Also, don't let inflatables run up onto a stony beach. Stop in the shallows and unload her there. This will avoid tearing the bottom and the need to use the repair kit and pump you should be carrying.

Moving around the boat safely means always: 

(A) Using the windward (uphill) side so, if you fall, you'll full inboard. It will also keep you away from the sails and let you brace your feet against the cabin sides.

(B) Keeping your body weight low if it's choppy and crawling if it's really rough.

(C) Holding on to something secure and remembering 'It's one hand for you and one hand for the boat!'

Well fitted hood that turns with your head but leaves room for a warm hat

Toggle hood adjusters save tying a string across your face

Large collar with flaps and a neck towel to keep out the drips

Hand warmer pockets

Adjustable cuffs

Chest high trousers give added protection

Watertight fly

Tough patche

Reflective tape (so you can be seen at night).

Built in buoyancy or add-on life jacket are good features

Integral harness

Bright colour

Waterproof gloves

Some thin materials can leak it sat on for hours on end in the wet

Make sure you can get enough warm clothes under the suit.

Adjustable trouser bottoms

Deck boots with non-slip soles that are large enough for warm socks to be worn.

Each crew member should be supplied with a safety harness that can be adjusted to a reasonably tight fit.

Once adjusted it can be easily put on when needed.

ALWAYS WEAR A HARNESS IF YOU FEEL UNSAFE OR WHEN THE SKIPPER TELLS YOU TO DO SO.

Don't be influenced by what other crew members are doing.

There are various types of spring clips but make sure yours works and is clipped onto something strong.

IN THE WATER 

By adopting this position in the water the body loses less heat and the hands keep the spray out of the nose and mouth.

OTHER FORMS OF BUOYANCY 

Buoyancy aids (A) are floating waistcoats normally worn by dinghy sailors.

Float coats (B) are jackets with some form of buoyancy built into them.

Both are comfortable to wear but neither one is as good as a lifejacket in an emergency.

The skipper will take control and bring the boat back to the casualty. Carry out his orders as fast as you can without endangering your own life. A wet adult is extremely heavy so once he's secured alongside some form of crane might have to be constructed to get him onboard again. 

THE BEST THING IS TO MAKE SURE IT NEVER HAPPENS TO YOU]

ALWAYS USE AN EXTINGUISHER UPRIGHT The tube nozzle type can be used upright yet still get to awkward places.

(A) The tube nozzle type can be used upright yet still get to awkward places. As on its side (to under a door etc) only half gas or powder will come out.

As on its side (to get under a door etc) only half the gas or powder will come out.

The tube nozzle type can be used upright yet still get to awkward places.

(B)The tube nozzle type can be used upright yet still get to awkward places.

The tube nozzle type can be used upright yet still get to awkward places.

The tube nozzle type can be used upright yet still get to awkward places.

FIRE BLANKETS 

Fire blankets (or wet dish cloths) can be used to smother a galley fire.

•Hold it like this to protect your hands and push it over the flames.

•If a person's clothes catch fire;

1. Push them over so the flames rise away from the face

2. Smother the flames away from the face

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SMOKE 

If the modern plastics in a boat catch fire they can give off VERY poisonous fumes.

SO, NEVER BREATHE IN THE SMOKE.

HOW TO SEND A DISTRESS CALL. 

Switch on power, switch on radio, select CH16. Turn to high power. Push press-to-transmit switch and speak slowly and distinctly.

Switch on power, switch on radio,

• MAYDAY, MAYDAY, MAYDAY.

• This is (yacht name 3 times)

• MAYDAY (yacht's name)

• Position (see below)

• Nature of distress

• Any extra information which might help

• Over

• Release transmit switch

Turning on the set etc can be forgotten in an emergency so make up a reminder card and stick it up near the radio.

MAYDAY is the international distress signal.

The name and the word yacht helps the searchers know what they are looking for.

See below

'I require immediate assistance' and include number of people on board, whether you are going to abandon ship or have fired flares etc.

'Over' means please reply.'I require immediate assistance' and include number of people on board, whether you are going to abandon ship or have fired flares etc.

'Over' means please reply.

PAN PAN, PAN PAN, PAN PAN, Hello all stations (3 times) this is (yacht name 3 times)

• Position

• Nature of urgency

• Assistance required

•Over

The advantage of an urgency call is that it lets the world know you are in some sort of trouble without launching all the rescue services at that moment.The advantage of an urgency call is that it lets the world know you are in some sort of trouble without launching all the rescue services at that moment.

Quick release loop

SLIDING NOOSE

TEMPORARILY ATTACHING FENDERS

Clove hitch with extra turn.

SLIDES THIS WAY

Taking the strain off another line

JAMS UNDER LOAD THIS WAY

Very secure and can be let go under tension.

For quickly joining two different sized ropes. A double sheet bend B is more secure.

Joining lines

Used as a 'stopper' knot so the line doesn't escape through a fitting. Doesn't jam and can be undone easily.

The sailor like the cowboy can control quite high loads by TAKING A TURN AROUND SOMETHING The sailor's equivalent to a saddle horn is called A CLEAT. They come in many shapes and sizes but all do the same job.

Go around the back of the cleat and add 'figure of eight' turns to increase friction.

Take several turns for friction and finish off like this.

A regular rhythm of say an arm's width creates an even coil.

Laid rope needs to be coiled clockwise and given a right hand twist in each turn. Then stowed like this.

Coil the line as above and divide it in two. Swing and throw one coil underhand while releasing the other coil as you do so.

ALWAYS LEAD LINES THRU' FAIRLEAOS & UNDER RAILS

A round turn and two half hitches (A) is a good knot to use for mooring lines as it can be released under load.

A howlini' (B) tied like this can rub back and forth on the ring and chafe through.

A round turn together with a bowline (C) is kinder on the rope.

ALLOWING FOR THE TIDAL RISE AND FALL

Never let the lines trail in the water as they might foul the propeller.

Always let the short end slip.

To help the helmsman judge direction and distance point the boathook like a spear.

Grab the pick-up buoy and bring it in under the rail. Haul in the line until you reach the chain strop and drop the eye over a cleat.

Round turn and two half hitches

Round turn and a bowline

Chain

To attach a line; one crew member hooks the buoy with a boathook (A) while another lies down and passes a line through the ring (B). The line is then handed up to the first person who takes it forward (C). A 'snap-on' boat hook (D) makes the job easier. The boat can be attached by (E) or (F) (gets the knot nearer the boat) or (G) if it's going to be rough. If the load on a boathook becomes too great LET IT GO, otherwise you could overbalance and fall in!

LETTING GO

WEIGHING THE ANCHOR (Getting up)

CLOSE HAULED is as close to the wind as the boat will sail (say about 45°)

'Ib sail towards the wind a boat must TACK or zig-zag. (Also known as beating.)

STARBOARD TACK is when the wind conies over the starboard side.

PORT TACK is when the wind comes over the port side.

TO TACK OR GO ABOUT is to change from one tack to the other by putting the bow through the wind.

FINE OR CLOSE REACH is a course between close-hauled and a beam reach.

TO LUFF-UP is to steer the boat towards the wind.

TO BEAR AWAY is to steer away from the wind.

BEAM REACHis when the wind comes over the beam (ie. 90°).

TO GYBEis to let the mainsail change sides by putting the stern through the wind.

BROAD REACH is when the wind comes over the quarter.

DEAD RUN OR RUNNING BEFORE THE WIND is when the wind is blowing over the stern.

LOOK UP

WATCH THE WIND INDICATOR!

SPINNAKER 

Set flying on a pole.

CRUISING SHUTE 

Fixed to a stay top and bottom.

NO 1 GENOA 

Headsail that overlaps the mast

NO 2 GENOA

NO 1 JIB

NO 2 JIB

NO 3 JIB

As the numbers get bigger the sails get smaller.

In very rough weather conditions these very small sails can be set.

1. The tack is pulled out of the bag and fixed on first.

2. The sail is then hanked on starting at the tack and working up to the head. TAKE CARE NOT TO GET THE LUFF TWISTED.

3. The sheets are attached with small loop and long tail bowlines. Make sure they are led back in the correct manner.

4. Prior to hoisting, the halyard can be attached and held down by hanking the top hank to the rail.

5. The sail can be either lashed to the rail and folded so the rain runs off or stowed hanked on in its bag (6).

1. Drag the bagged sail along the windward sidedeck and make sure you are hooked on in heavy weather.

2. Hank on the new sail (starting at the tack) below the first hank of the old sail. Secure the bag.

3. Tension is kept on the halyard by letting it slip around the winch as the sail is pulled down.

4. Pull on the luff of the old sail to lower it. Remove the halyard and secure it. Transfer the sheets to the new sail.

5. Bag or stow the old sail and unhunk. Transfer the halyard to the new sail and hoist when ready.

Insert half a metre before hoisting

Some boats have headsails which run up grooves in a HEADFOIL. 

This makes for very quick sail changes especially when racing.

Sails can often be kept in their special bag while the tack (I) and sheets are attached. The bolt rope (2) is fed through the pre-feeder CD and into the foil (4).

The halyard (5) is fixed on.

The sail tie (6) and bag are removed ready for hoisting.

The new sail can be hoisted inside or outside the old one and if the halyards and sheets are right, a fast TACK CHANGE can be made.

BENDING ON THE MAINSAIL 

1. The CLEW is fed into the groove in the boom.

2. The TACK is fixed to the gooseneck and the foot of the sail tcnsioned at the clew.

3. BATTENS are slid into their pockets.

4. The LUFF SLIDES ure fed into the groove in the mast via a mast gate and the gate closed.

SAIL COVERS 

The bent-on sail is usually protected by a sail cover which can be fastened in a variety of ways. It's removed by rolling or flaking like this.

SAIL TIES 

The furled sail is secured by a number of SAIL TIES. These can be made of rope, tape or elastic.

The ties can be secured in a number of ways, but a simple bow is as good as any. Ask the skipper how he wants them secured but be very careful of elastic as it can sometimes hit you in the eye.

1. Check all sail slides are in groove.

2. Remove sail ties, working forward.

3. Attach halyard.

4. Free sheet and kicking strap.

5. Look up to check halyard is clear.

6. Hoist the sail When on a CLOSE REACH.

7. Tension halyard and outhaul

8. Ease topping lift.

9. Tension kicker and sheet.

10. Coil and stow halyard.

1. Ease kicker and sheet

2. I'm .urn topping lift.

3. Ease halyard.

4. Pull luff down.

5. Hook on reefing cringle and re ten.sion halyard.

6. Haul down the leech reefing pennant. LOOK UP FOR SNAGS.

7. Take up slack in other reefing pennants.

8. Ease topping lift, tension kicker and sheet.

9. Tidy up the loose bunt of the sail and secure it with reef knots (see page 33). These should not be so tight as to cause creases (as here) and also should not trap the other reefing lines. Remember, always work on the high (windward) side of the boom.

1. Work on the weather (high) side.

2. Remove ties.

3. Ease kicker and sheet.

4. Tension topping lift.

5. Ease all pennants.

6. Ease halyard.

7. Unhook reef cringle.

8. Tension luff with halyard.

9. Ease topping lift.

10. Tension kicker and adjust sheet if needed.

1. Ease the main sheet.

2. Ease kicker.

3. Tension topping lift.

4. Ease halyard.

5. Pull luff down.

6. Pull sail aft.

7. When the sail is down tighten the main sheet to steady the boom.

8. Try to Hake the sail down or.

8.....form a sort of pocket in the sail and push the folds of the sail into it. The top of the pocket can be folded over the sail to act as a cover and let any rain run off.

In heavy weather and short handed add a safety tuck to the main sheet (as shown) and haul the sail aft tying it down as you work your way forward.

The mainsail is controlled by a powerful blofek and tackle system called the mainsheet. A small force on the mainsheet tail (A) is multiplied by the pulleys to a large force (B).

Subtle sail adjustments can be made by moving the mainsheet across the boat on the mainsheet track.

Another smaller set of lines, blocks and cleats (C) are used to control this movement.

The kicking strap helps control the shape of the sail and stops the boom lifting when the main sheet is let full out.

The headsails are controlled by the jib or genoa sheets, these are led aft through fairleads or jib or genoa cars. To get the correct angular pull, the cars can be moved to set positions on the track (D) or adjusted by a line and pulley system (E).

The sheets finally arrive back at the cockpit and are controlled by wrapping them clockwise around a winch.

A winch handle adds extra leverage and sometimes has a lock to save it falling out and a ratchet to make turning it easier.

The more turns you make with a rope the more friction you get. So very large forces can be controlled with the minimum of effort. Winches use this principle.

Use only one turn to pull in the slack jib sheet, because if you use more it will probably jam.

As the load comes on the sheet add more turns to increase friction. But, keep pulling on the tail.

The winch handle is used to increase leverage. Wind in the sheet the required amount and secure to cleat.

SELF-TAILING WINCH

RELEASING

Here the tail is gripped by the top of the winch so both hands can be used on the handle.

To let the sheet out slightly, ease the turns round the drum with the palm of the hand, while keeping your fingers clear.

To release quickly, flick the turns off the top of the winch.

Helmsman says 'READY ABOUT' and the crew uncleats the sheet, without easing it and says'READY'. The helmsman says 'LEE-OH' and pushes the tiller over and the crew releases the sheet.

As the boat goes through the wind the crew moves to the other side and starts pulling in the sheet by taking a turn on the winch. The helmsman also changes sides keeping the helm over.

The helmsman can help the crew by slowing the turn (giving a luff) allowing most of the sheet to be pulled in before the sail fills. Extra turns are put on the winch and the sheet tensioned.

The helsman says 'STAND BY TO GYBE' and the crew prepares the new sheet and says 'READY' The helmsman puts the wind on one quarter and the boom on the other by hardening (pulling in) the mainsheet.

The helmsman says 'GYBE-OH' and turns the stern through the wind. As the boom comes across the main-sheet is released letting the friction in the blocks slow the boom down and the tiller is centred to slow the turn. The crew releases the old sheet and pulls in the new.

When the boom is safely across the new course is steered and the main trimmed by pulling in the mainsheet. The crew trims the headsail for the new course. ALWAYS MIND YOUR HEAD AS THE BOOM SWINGS ACROSS THE BOAT.

POLING OUT THE JIB 

With the wind astern the jib is often held out with a spinnaker or whisker pole.

1 Main and jib are sheeted in on a broad reach and the DOWNHAUL is connected to the pole while it is still stowed on deck.

2. Clip the pole to the mast keeping the front end on deck.

3. Clip on the UPHAUL.

4 Rig the AFTER GUY through a block right aft and outside everything.

5. With the pole end still on deck clip the LAZY JIB SHEET into the pole jaws.

6. Lift the pole with the UPHAUL to the height of the jib clew.

7. Haul the pole back until it nearly touches the shrouds.

8. Tighten the DOWNHAUL.

9 The pole is now fixed in the right position held by three lines.

10. The jib is still on the same side as the main, so the crew go back to the cockpit and pull in on the new sheet bringing the jib across until its clew is at the pole end.

The main boom can be held out with a PREVENTER. (Stops the boom crashing across in an accidental gybe).

The tiller (A) is moved AW4V from the direction you want to turn. The force of the water on the rudder (B) pushes the stern across and the boat roughly pivots about a point just aft of the mast (C). Here we might hit the wall with the stern!

A wheel is moved IN THE SAME direction as you want to go.

When you're on the correct course, find something ahead that lines up with a piece of the boat. This saves always staring at the compass.

But, don't get transfixed by your steering mark and ignore what is going on around you. ALWAYS keep a good lookout all around especially behind you.

STEERING TO WINDWARD 

(Towards the wind or 'ON THE WIND')

With the sails trimmed correctly the helmsman must guard against the wind getting on the other side of the sail.

The first indication of this is the front of the mainsail or jib starts to belly or back so steer the bow away from the wind.

STEERING OFF THE WIND 

(Away from the wind)

Here the helmsman must not let the wind get on the other side of the sail or it will gybe violently as above.

The first indication of this is the back of the jib lifting. Steer the bow towards the wind.

(With a tiller push it towards the boom)

IS HE GOING TO HIT US?

Does the background move from behind him?

Always warn the skipper of any approaching boats. Don't assume they've seen you or know the rule of the road. (You know how some people drive on the road!)

If vessel maintains the same bearing to you, there will be a collision. Check with a compass or line him up with a stanchion. Also see if the background is moving.

Always keep a good look out all around -especially astern and behind the genoa. Modern ships travel at high speeds, so this can.

... turn into a huge container ship travelling at over 30 knots and could be on top of you in less than 10 minutes.

At night it's hard to judge distance and easy to convince yourself this is only a small fishing fleet with their deck lights on...

... but, one could be a very fast moving cruise ship ablaze with lights that could be on top of you in a matter of minutes.

In poor visibility, it is often very hard to tell which way a ship is going and it is even harder for him to see you. So, keep the skipper informed of any nearby shipping.

At night the relationship between the ship's two white masthead lights, together with its port and starboard lights show in which direction it is travelling.

Various combinations of coloured lights mean different things -- even that he can't manoeuvre to get out of your way ...

and near the shore these lights can get lost in the background SO KEEP AN EVEN BETTER LOOK OUT AT NIGHT.

DESCRIPTION

WIND SPEED IN KNOTS

1

Light airs, ripples

Drifting conditions

1-3

2

Light breeze, small wavelets 

Both need large sails to catch breeze

4-6

3

Gentle breeze, crests begin to break 

Large headsails & full mainsails

7-10

4

Moderate, small waves becoming larger, frequent white crests

Reduce headsails and full main (B) might start to reef

11-16

5

Fresh breeze, moderate waves many white crests, spray 

Reduce headsails and (B) starts to reef

17-21

6

Strong breeze, large waves, white foam crests

Less sail

22-27

7

Near gale, sea heaps up, white foam, breaking waves blown in streaks 

Both under reefed mains with small jibs

28-33

8

Gale, moderately high waves, breaking crests, foam streaks

Deep reefed mains, storm jib on (B)

34-40

9

Severe gale, high waves, crests tumbk' spray affects visibility 

(A) Storm jib & trysail, storm jib only on (B)

41-47

10

STORM Very high waves with long breaking crests.

Survival conditions.

48-55